lightweight bigwheel kayak trolley

by:AIRWOLF     2020-06-14
I recently converted to kayaking.
I used to go sailing a few years ago, and for many years before that, I was a teenager.
I want to start sailing again, but, alas, the money is too tight!
So, after seeing my brother kayak in law, I think it would be a great, simple, cheap way back to the water. It is.
Not sailing ,(
Although you can add sails to your kayak)
It\'s different, it\'s also interesting.
Kayaks, like mine, are hybrid and sit on top, generally not heavy according to their design, about 30 to 40 kg m and about 3 m long.
This makes them easy to carry, but once you add the gear ie.
Anchor trolley (
Another note came)
Anchor, lights, fishing gear, your lunch!
It will become very heavy.
Carrying it at a distance can also be a burden.
Why do you want to make your own kayak?
There are several criteria in addition to the challenge. One.
Be sure to be cheap.
To get the function I want on the trolley, I have to pay a high price.
I want beach wheels.
If you are lucky, you can buy small plastic carts for about $100, most of which are between $150 and $200.
I also hope it is something I can easily build myself. Two.
I would like the beach wheels because the thinner tires provided on the cheap carts are more likely to sink into the soft sand, which makes it more difficult to ship the kayaks.
It takes about $100 to buy beach wheels yourself-$150 a pair!
My solution and the whole trolley design need to be cheaper.
I will disclose the price on the next page. Three.
The design must be simple and practical, made with the least purchased parts I can escape.
I want to use some of the things I lay around the cottage and the house. Four.
I have to be able to build it with the tool at hand.
This kayak cart does nothing but hand tools and hand-held power tools.
I used welders in this project, but with a couple of mods you can do without welders.
It can even be cut with hand tools such as a hacksaw, or it can be cut with a drill bit and a cold cut. Five.
Finally, it must be light and rust-proof as much as possible.
I know I can\'t make it with all the aluminum or plastic, but most of it is.
I end up using some steel parts so they have to be stainless steel or painted/galvanized to protect against the elements.
This is a very simple build. Read on.
Before I get the parts, I know what kind of trolley I want to build.
I think a simple \"h frame\" will give me the most solid build and the simplest design/build option.
Since I have a hybrid kayak with the back closed like sitting on it and the front open like sitting on a kayak, I can use a kayak cart with a pole, through the body of the kayak, secure the trolley on the kayak and Kakay sits on it.
I also have a canoe with some removable plug-ins and I can also have this cart with it.
As for the wheel.
Purchase the kayak cart or trolley wheel, the \"beach wheel\", and I will end up paying an extra fee.
As I wrote before, each pair ranges from $100 to $150.
I really don\'t want to use regular wind wheels, as in a trolley, because these wind wheels can easily fall into soft sand, even though they are reasonably priced, $30 a pair, if you look around
I need wide wheels for what I want.
I went to my local K-when I thought about how to fix this-
People who buy new shoes and fish.
When I was in the toy/bike/sports area (
Where they used to put their fishing gear, I looked down at a bottom shelf and saw a big fat wheel! Eureka!
I stumbled upon what I was looking.
I am looking for a price tag with a restless mood of consolidation. $8. $8 each! Woah.
The roof cracked, the sun came in, and the harp began to play.
I found my wheel.
They are wide enough, big enough, and very cheap.
Forget $100 or more per person.
A total of 16 Australian dollars, I have two wheels!
Part of their entire project cost $48.
Bolts, metal plates, rivets, washers and pipes, shafts and wheels are included.
I used aluminum tubes in \"h Frame.
The frame looks like an H and has two bars instead of one that goes through it.
I use aluminum as light and corrosion resistant.
I used steel and/or galvanized/painted steel parts when I needed strong support or connectors.
I bought 25mm of 3 m X 25mm square aluminum tube.
22mm of 1 m x 3mm thick circular galvanized steel pipe (
Just 2mm thick).
10mm solid steel rod of 2 m.
2 large plastic wheels.
Galvanized nuts and bolts of 3/4.
2 square black tail caps 25mm.
1 black gloss paint tank.
1 pack of Teflon end nut. (Not used)On hand I had; M6.
Stainless steel and aluminum rivets.
Galv 20mm washer. Two split pins.
50mm square galv pipe.
When I moved it, I cut the two columns of the frame based on the ideal height I thought the kayak should reach.
This is 410mm long for an upright pipe.
Next, I measured the length of the tube, which will connect the kayak to the trolley frame through the scupper hole on the back of the kayak.
They are 230mm long when built, allowing about 1/3 of the length to be within the trolley frame.
Then, when the kayak is on a flat ground, I put the round tube into the scupper hole and slide the two columns over them.
I use this to measure the distance of the beam and the approximate length of the axle.
The number of each member is 300mm.
My goal is to set the width so that the pole will be in the dead center of the scupper hole.
At this point, I only got the approximate length of the wheel axle, because I need to consider the spacing between the wheel and the frame, the length of the end of the shaft, according to the method I used to connect the wheel, the shaft end point is also allowed to fit the appropriate length inside the wheel end cap.
After I built the first part of the frame, I measured the dimensions of the shaft.
The next step is to exercise a way to connect the beam to the column.
I have a few options to weld the aluminum together, which I can\'t do because at this stage I don\'t have an inverter or tig welder, only a gas-free MiG, or I can cut the pipe, slide the flaps and rivet them on the pipe.
This will be a too weak addition.
Or, when I come up with it, connect the tubes together with a metal plate/strip.
I decided to set it up with tongue and groove type.
If you wish, I will cut the thin metal plate with tongue or flange at each end and insert it into the groove of the aluminum tube cut.
Then I will join them with the pop rivets.
They will give the frame a building that is really solid, solid and not moving.
Now, to make a plate with a tongue at the end, I usually bend a flat piece of metal with my bench mate.
But, my shortcomings, by means of evolution, long legs and walking before I move.
So, this is out of the window now.
Then it hit me, what if I could cut some steel that already has the desired shape?
So, I was lucky to see that I had bought some big square pipes to make the fence before.
I cut a square galvanized tube about 45mm wide and 22mm wide with a 2mm tongue at the end.
The remainder of the tip of the tongue becomes the plane used by the other side of the frame to help hold it together.
To make it easy for me to see where I\'m going to cut, I put a blue marker line at the approximate measurement point and scored through it at the correct measurement point.
Through the \"blue\" metal, and then mark it in it, it is easier to see when cutting.
I used my old metal cutting saw.
You can do this easily with a manual grinder or a hacksaw.
In fact, I ended up using several methods to cut my parts.
Not just the cut-off saw.
Before I connected the frame together, I worked out where I wanted the wheel axle to sit and how far I wanted the top pole to sit, taking into account the distance of the curve at the bottom of the kayak.
I put the frame column length under the beam and let it have more distance from the opening end of the tube, which is a weakness on the tube.
Then I drilled a few holes on the side to get the axle through.
Once I have the H shape, I slide the steel shaft in and fit two washers.
Between the wheel and the frame, the end of the shaft allows 10mm to be put into a separate pin, and then I cut it into length.
This is the second axis I did because I didn\'t leave enough space between the wheel and the frame to stop them from rubbing.
The extra gasket between the wheel and the frame solves the problem, two instead of one.
Once I do this, I cut and weld the first gasket only on one side.
This is important.
At this point, only two washers are welded on one side.
After the entire frame connection was completed, we added the other side.
In order to connect the parts of the frame together, I cut some used tongue plates on the frame pipe.
I align the pipe, then put the connector on top and engrave a mark on the frame for cutting.
I used a Dremel tool with a small cutting plate here, but you can do it with a Cold Chisel, put a piece of wood in it, hammer the chisel on the other side, cut the groove, you can also drill a series of small holes straight, and then cut them down with a chisel.
Then I hammer the hammer with the tongue and the groove parts to prepare the drill.
I clamp the crossbar on the other piece of pipe so that it is easier for me to keep the frame stable and square.
When I drill holes for pop rivets, I have clamped the tubing down and I use a fixed square to constantly check if the angle of the workpiece remains true.
We want the frame to be as straight as possible and think that it does have some margin and it doesn\'t have much margin of error.
According to previous photos, there is a tongue on the plate of the tongue that is smaller than the size of the plate.
I grind my tongue to the right size on my grinding wheel.
You can do it with files, but I like to save time and it\'s easier. :)
When I cut the slots of the tongue, I made them slightly smaller than the width of the tongue so that there would be a very tight fit and a firm hold.
So why did I knock them into the slot.
After the hammer goes in, I check that the angle of the frame is 90 degrees before drilling.
I drill in one direction to get the maximum load on the pipe.
The view of the Eagle Eye will notice a corner, which I did not do.
I filled my stomach because I was tired.
Once I installed all the tongue and groove connectors to one side of the frame, I turned it over, drilled the drill, and then put the flat rivets on the other side.
I made enough tongue pieces for one side of the frame.
I infer that the left flat part is enough to hold the frame together with the tongue part and the rivets to prevent any side movement or distortion.
As a whole, it works.
Next, after I played the H frame match, I leveled all the ends.
I used two manual files, one is rough, one is medium/thin, and the wet and dry sandpaper.
The only place I left it rough was on the inside of the bottom.
I keep the edges inside rough so that the end cap stays in it better.
After I finished painting and polishing, the end cap was put in.
Now that I have fully assembled the H frame, I put the shaft into the bottom and now weld it on the two washers at the other end.
Now make the tube to enter the kayak.
I grind one end on each round tube.
I rounded each end up so it could get into the scupper hole of the kayak more smoothly.
Once the ends are ground, archived, and polished, I put them into the top column of the frame.
About 1/3 will fit the position where the rivets are placed.
Once the tube is inserted, then I use a punch to make a small indent for the drill.
My cheap drill bit was very rough when I drilled into 3mm thick galv steel.
Once I found the good carbide, I went a lot better!
It still needs some re-grinding even though I have stayed calm with the lubricating oil.
I drilled the hole from the side so the nut would be inside the frame.
The hole on the front of the frame in the photo is another mistake for me.
Once again, work when you are tired.
Yes, I have marked it in advance, but I missed the mark.
Sometimes I don\'t know when I am tired, because I am tired! :)
Anyway, I put the bolts in after I finished the hole and hit home.
There is a square key slot at the end of the bolt head.
This will hold the bolt when the nut is tightened.
I used a washer and lock washer to hold the nut in place.
You might want to use a star washing machine, or even some locking one.
You can also use nylon plug-in nut.
This will change later when I change the bolts to stainless steel nuts and bolts.
Even though the tube is galvanized, I painted the axle shafts when I painted them.
They look better and have some extra protection.
Just before I drew some metal parts, I put one end of the half shaft on one side and each end was flat.
I drilled a 3mm hole in the ground.
This is to keep the wheel with a separate pin and gasket.
I was going to install the nut on the shaft end, but when I tried to cut the thread on the shaft, it wouldn\'t be cut, so I ended up using the split pin method.
I didn\'t wear the wheel until the penultimate step.
I used a cleaner on the part to be painted to remove any grease and dirt.
Be sure to have a clean surface before painting so that it can attach better and stay longer.
I gave the parts, three layers of paint, suspended for about 20 minutes between each.
I also sprayed paint on the bottom of the column and painted the axle inside the tubing.
I painted the axle after welding the washer because the welding does not allow me to weld on the part and the welding will burn any paint nearby.
When the paint is dry, I put the tail cap in.
I reinstalled the round tube into the frame, installed the nuts and bolts, cut off the excess Bolt length using Dremel, and ground the end of the bolt with a file.
I could have taken out my angle grinder, but Dremel is at hand and it goes through the bolts well.
Putting the trolley in the kayak as it is will cause damage to the plastic casing of the kayak.
Although it is very thick, the trolley can cause damage at this stage.
So we need an end cap to protect the kayak from the frame column.
Although I have filed and smoothed the columns, they are too thin to support the weight at the bottom of the kayak.
I use the soft end cap of the 75mm Poly tube.
I lay a few around so these are perfect for the job.
Otherwise, go to the hardware store.
Unfortunately I used a hole saw which is 1mm to large and perfectly matched with the round pipe.
This means that the hat will be loose and not comfortable enough to keep enough self.
Cable Connection for rescue!
I started with a little bit and switched to a larger hole saw.
I don\'t have a smaller size than the tubing.
Cable tie around the tubing and fix it well.
Put the wheels on now.
I put some grease on the axle before I put it on.
The axle does move, but when the wheel is also moving on the axle, I also Oil the axle in which the wheel is in contact.
If the wheel moves, this will reduce any friction on the wheel, not just the movement of the axle, thereby reducing wear and making it easier to move.
Once the wheel is on, the end washer and split pin are put in and I wear the end cap that comes with the wheel.
These will reduce the entry of dirty sand and extend the life of the wheel.
Now, on the next page, the money was shot. Here it is.
In the glorious actionWell. Stills.
I easily moved the kayak because of its height.
When you paddle, the trolley can be stored on the kayak by tying it up or pouring it over through the scupper hole.
Although I prefer to leave it in my car.
Even if the paddle is light, the weight of the paddle is smaller.
But you can carry it with you if you can\'t.
Hope you enjoy my guidance and hope it helps if you want to do one. Thank you.
I will do something in the near future.
The bolts I used, I bought them where I bought the aluminum tube, separated from where I bought the steel.
I will replace them with stainless steel 316 nuts and bolts in the near future.
I couldn\'t get them at the time because I spent too much money on my account.
The price of ordinary bolts is less than $1, stainless steel marine grade, and the price of each bolt is far more than $1.
I can also paint on the tongue Connector board and on the board.
I used stainless steel or aluminum rivets when I ran out, but the plate was galv steel and a little paint might be a good idea.
I used different metals, so electrolysis could be a problem.
By connecting different metals together, there is a potential between the joints to increase oxidation (rusting)
So I can add a sacrifice board to the frame.
On the Tube, I would like to dip in a sledge or plastic.
Although I do like the look of bare metal, I may end up painting the entire trolley frame.
That\'s it now.
Except for the last note.
A friend asked, \"but will it Mix ? \"\".
\"Yes, but not only that, it also comes with a free steak knife!
\"The picture was for him. Hi Jammie.
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